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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.